January, 2020
I seem to have made this a regular winter thing--taking the train to the Grand Canyon. Anyway, I've done it several times. I've checked the weather at the canyon and made certain that I'll have a good three days of (mostly) clear weather.
Kansas
There's no way to avoid it: the schedule says the #3 train departs the Newton station at 2:45AM. At least there's no traffic to account for. I've got a roomette reserved for both directions and expect to climb into bed just as soon as I'm aboard.
Colorado
I'm carrying my usual (well-travelled) yellow duffle-bag. There's a pull-down bed above me and two facing seats that recline into the lower bed. I've got a single electrical outlet, a big window and a small bit of shelf space to put things away. The bag will be hung on the wall.
The first stop for a short break outside is La Junta, Colorado. It's pretty cold.
The Spanish Peaks, Colorado. Elevation 13,631 ft. I've been all around those peaks on the motorcycle. It's no wonder that this was a prominent marker on the Santa Fe Trail.
New Mexico
Into the Raton Pass tunnel...
...then, out of the Raton Pass tunnel. The rail route over Raton Pass has long been replaced by another route that is not nearly so steep. But, Amtrak remains on these historic (and scenic) rails.
Ratón, New Mexico for the second fresh-air break (ironically called a smoking-break).
Pronghorns on the move. That's the eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains.
Beyond Albuquerque and running west as the sun drops down.
Arizona
It's early morning (but, not too early) to take the train from Williams to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. This engine once pulled an Amtrak train, but, that was many years ago. Now, it has been re-geared to run a fuel-efficient 40 mph up to the rim.
Midway, the route drops down a couple thousand feet to the desert before climbing back to the elevation of the rim of around 7,000 ft. There is entertainment onboard.
This is what makes arriving by train so attractive. The depot is just steps from my hotel, which is right on the rim. A car would only be in the way (and parking would be much farther away).
*El Tovar Viewpoint*
That first view of the canyon never disappoints.
Looking over the route of the Bright Angel trail all the way across to the north rim.
El Tovar. This former Harvey House was built in 1905 by the Santa Fe Railway (Charles Whittlesey, architect). It was the first hotel at the rim of the Grand Canyon, and remains the best, so why stay anyplace else?
I think I've had the onion soup on each of my visits. The menu has changed little from when the hotel opened. Breakfast seems designed to give you all the energy to walk down to the river and back, again.
Christmas decorations remain; the fire is roaring.
The sun is setting on this first (cold) evening at the canyon. An Irish Coffee seems in order.
Kolb Studio was once a private commercial operation, but now is part of the national park facilities. The lower level has an exhibit of canyon paintings (all are for sale).
South Rim Shuttle Bus. During the winter months, there are two lines in operation. The rest of the year, there is a third line that runs to Hermit's Rest. The longest wait for the next bus to show is only twenty minutes. Again, a car would be more trouble than help.
*Yaki Point*
I had expected to walk down the Kaibab Trail (but, not more than a couple of miles), however, the upper trail was covered in ice and as I didn't have any crampons for my boots, I didn't. You can just see a mule train taking a rest (below).
*Pipecreek Vista*
El Tovar and Bright Angel are the two famous lodges in the park. There's also a third and larger hotel on the rim, but you'll not see many photographs of it. Frankly, it's ugly. That's the Thunderbird Lodge (below, left). In the 1930s the CCC built a wall along the paved rim path, and evidently one of the more romantic workers added a small feature.
*Bright Angel Trail Overlook*
Deer and elk are common and they're not much concerned about people. However, the park warns you not to feed or otherwise bother these animals. The fine is (I believe) $500 if you're caught. Leave them be.
*Maricopa Point*
*Powell Point*
It's time to return to Williams on the same train that brought me to the canyon.
It's snowing heavily in Williams, but (as at the canyon) dinner (and my hotel) is just steps away.
There's a morning shuttle from Williams to Flagstaff where I'll catch the #4 train going east.
New Mexico
Watching New Mexico go by from the warmth of the lounge car.
Ladron Peak, New Mexico. Elevation 9,186 ft.
Albuquerque, New Mexico. I've always liked this painting, which is otherwise unseen by anybody not riding a train (or trespassing on railroad property).
On the Apache Canyon Railroad Bridge over Galisteo Creek near Lamy, New Mexico, which was constructed in 1892. The train doesn't run fast through this narrow canyon, but you've still got to be quick with the camera.
Glorietta Pass, New Mexico.
The sun has gone down and it's time for dinner.
It's time to turn my seats into a bed (and set my alarm for the crazy morning arrival back in Newton).
I expect that I'll do it all again, next year.